Sunday, July 6, 2014
Almost Halfway--Trail Magic in Sierra City
Fairy BlogMother's sister Ann and husband Steve drove to Sierra City from their home in Dublin CA to meet Waterfall and Backup for all you can eat barbecue and resupply at the general store in town. Steve brushed off the four hour drive, saying that he'd spent less time driving than Kitt and Erin had spent walking... Fresh watermelon, cantaloupe and gluten-free brownies were left to share with hiker friends.
Saturday, July 5, 2014
Notes from the Sierra--from Erin(Backup) and Kitt(Waterfall) via snail mail--PART ONE
ERIN(Backup): The Sierra chewed us up and spit us out---from 12,000' passes to some of the steepest terrain we had ever hiked. We were challenged every day for the last month. However, it seemed like not a day went by without one of us saying "This is the most beautiful place I have ever been."
KITT(Waterfall): Mom--writing to you from South Lake Tahoe, reveling in air-conditioned comfort and a respite from 11 days of dirt and trail miles since our previous town break. And our last hotel stay was back in Tehachapi...over 500 miles between showers and clean bed sheets.
Kennedy Meadows to Kearsarge Pass
The approach to the mountains was slow and gradual. We had several days of climbing gently to 10,000', still in timber, before we were rewarded with our first views of mountains up close. On our third night out from KM we saw more stars than I thought existed; it felt like we could see the entire galaxy.
Once we made it above timberline we faced our first climb over Forrester Pass at 13,200'. The approach from the south was through several miles of tundra-like landscape with lots of granite. Some snow patches and trail switchbacks across a steep rockface and we were at the highest point on the entire PCT. The views north were incredible--mountains stretching into the distance, range after jagged range. We felt both intimidated and empowered knowing that we were going to spend the next few weeks hiking up and down to the end of the hills.
We spent several hours descending down snowfields and rock gardens, re-entering the forest and recently melted-out meadows with newly emerged wildflowers.
The next day, we hiked east off of the PCT over Kearsarge Pass and out the Onion Valley trail, eventually spending two relaxing zeros in town. Thank you VERY much to the Eckland family for helping us with our chores!
Kearsarge Pass to Red's Meadow
After recharging in Bishop. we headed back into the high Sierra. The gradual multi-day approach to a high pass was apparently a "one-time only" phenomenon, for we now faced having to climb one high pass each day. I found all of the passes in this section to be harder than Forrester, and for the first time on the trail, I felt like I was struggling. Our packs were heavy with food and bear cans, and we were hiking at over 10,000' elevation much of the time.
Despite the struggle, this section was (again) one of the most beautiful places we had ever seen. High mountain passes and alpine tundra alternated with clear, blue lakes and lush green meadows carpeted with purple shooting stars (wildflowers).
11 June-- Mile 789 to 803-- Charlotte Lake-Glen Pass-Camp-in-the-Woods
Glen Pass was a long climb, with an even steeper, exposed descent over mixed rock and snow. By lunchtime we were at Rae Lakes, and continued to hike through scattered lakelets and granite pinnacles. We tried to cover as many trail miles as we could to set up for the next pass; following a river much of the way. We camped several miles beyond a swaying suspension bridge that gave us a healthy jolt of adrenaline.
12 June-- Mile 803 to 814--Pinchot Pass
Shorter day today. Pinchot Pass was not as steep as Glen., but we did have a long descent over snowfields on the north side. We continued hiking throughout the day and camped about 3 miles below Mather Pass.
13 June--Mile 814 to 833--Mather Pass
Definitely the steepest, trickiest pass we have encountered. Made it to the top at 0830 on firm snow and took a careful hour or more to descend into friendlier terrain. We hiked farther today in order to line up for Muir Pass, some 20 trail miles beyond Mather.Camped at Big Pete's Meadow, about 7 miles from Muir Pass. Longest day in the mountains helped us to sleep well.
14 June--Mile 833 to 850--Muir Pass
Several "false passes" led to Muir and the Muir Hut. Breathtaking scenery; lakes and snowfields shining in the morning sun. We did not linger at the top--a picture or two and then we headed down to the lakes in the valley below to filter water. We headed into Evolution Basin after lunch, passing Evolution Lake, which was a beautiful setting. We camped along the river and will ford it in the morning.
15 June--Mile 850 to 871--Seldon Pass
This was the first pass that we crossed in the afternoon. Felt easier to us as our packs are lighter every day.
16 June--Mile 871 to 890--Silver Pass
Many rolling climbs and descents today. Feet, legs, hearts and lungs are more accustomed to mileage and altitude. Mentally motivated to find a sustainable pace that will carry us for a ten to twelve hour day of hiking. Looking forward to resupply at Mammoth Lake.
17 June--Mile 890 to 907--Red's Meadow/Mammoth Lakes...and a zero in town!
900 miles on the PCT!! Crowded shuttle bus to town--jammed full of smelly thru-hikers, vacationing families, day-hikers and annoyed pre-teens.We decided to stay at the campground, but had a wonderful time unpacking our glorious care packages from friends and family.
KITT(Waterfall): Mom--writing to you from South Lake Tahoe, reveling in air-conditioned comfort and a respite from 11 days of dirt and trail miles since our previous town break. And our last hotel stay was back in Tehachapi...over 500 miles between showers and clean bed sheets.
Kennedy Meadows to Kearsarge Pass
The approach to the mountains was slow and gradual. We had several days of climbing gently to 10,000', still in timber, before we were rewarded with our first views of mountains up close. On our third night out from KM we saw more stars than I thought existed; it felt like we could see the entire galaxy.
Once we made it above timberline we faced our first climb over Forrester Pass at 13,200'. The approach from the south was through several miles of tundra-like landscape with lots of granite. Some snow patches and trail switchbacks across a steep rockface and we were at the highest point on the entire PCT. The views north were incredible--mountains stretching into the distance, range after jagged range. We felt both intimidated and empowered knowing that we were going to spend the next few weeks hiking up and down to the end of the hills.
We spent several hours descending down snowfields and rock gardens, re-entering the forest and recently melted-out meadows with newly emerged wildflowers.
The next day, we hiked east off of the PCT over Kearsarge Pass and out the Onion Valley trail, eventually spending two relaxing zeros in town. Thank you VERY much to the Eckland family for helping us with our chores!
Kearsarge Pass to Red's Meadow
After recharging in Bishop. we headed back into the high Sierra. The gradual multi-day approach to a high pass was apparently a "one-time only" phenomenon, for we now faced having to climb one high pass each day. I found all of the passes in this section to be harder than Forrester, and for the first time on the trail, I felt like I was struggling. Our packs were heavy with food and bear cans, and we were hiking at over 10,000' elevation much of the time.
Despite the struggle, this section was (again) one of the most beautiful places we had ever seen. High mountain passes and alpine tundra alternated with clear, blue lakes and lush green meadows carpeted with purple shooting stars (wildflowers).
11 June-- Mile 789 to 803-- Charlotte Lake-Glen Pass-Camp-in-the-Woods
Glen Pass was a long climb, with an even steeper, exposed descent over mixed rock and snow. By lunchtime we were at Rae Lakes, and continued to hike through scattered lakelets and granite pinnacles. We tried to cover as many trail miles as we could to set up for the next pass; following a river much of the way. We camped several miles beyond a swaying suspension bridge that gave us a healthy jolt of adrenaline.
12 June-- Mile 803 to 814--Pinchot Pass
Shorter day today. Pinchot Pass was not as steep as Glen., but we did have a long descent over snowfields on the north side. We continued hiking throughout the day and camped about 3 miles below Mather Pass.
13 June--Mile 814 to 833--Mather Pass
Definitely the steepest, trickiest pass we have encountered. Made it to the top at 0830 on firm snow and took a careful hour or more to descend into friendlier terrain. We hiked farther today in order to line up for Muir Pass, some 20 trail miles beyond Mather.Camped at Big Pete's Meadow, about 7 miles from Muir Pass. Longest day in the mountains helped us to sleep well.
14 June--Mile 833 to 850--Muir Pass
Several "false passes" led to Muir and the Muir Hut. Breathtaking scenery; lakes and snowfields shining in the morning sun. We did not linger at the top--a picture or two and then we headed down to the lakes in the valley below to filter water. We headed into Evolution Basin after lunch, passing Evolution Lake, which was a beautiful setting. We camped along the river and will ford it in the morning.
15 June--Mile 850 to 871--Seldon Pass
This was the first pass that we crossed in the afternoon. Felt easier to us as our packs are lighter every day.
16 June--Mile 871 to 890--Silver Pass
Many rolling climbs and descents today. Feet, legs, hearts and lungs are more accustomed to mileage and altitude. Mentally motivated to find a sustainable pace that will carry us for a ten to twelve hour day of hiking. Looking forward to resupply at Mammoth Lake.
17 June--Mile 890 to 907--Red's Meadow/Mammoth Lakes...and a zero in town!
900 miles on the PCT!! Crowded shuttle bus to town--jammed full of smelly thru-hikers, vacationing families, day-hikers and annoyed pre-teens.We decided to stay at the campground, but had a wonderful time unpacking our glorious care packages from friends and family.
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